Melasma is a common skin condition that causes brown or blue-grey patches on the skin.

 “These patches can be flat or freckle-like and often appear on the face, typically on the cheeks, upper lip and forehead,” says Nadia Paglia, director of education at Dermalogica.

Melasma is much more common in women than men—in fact, it’s estimated that about 90 percent of cases are in women. “It’s sometimes called ‘pregnancy mask,’ because it frequently affects pregnant women, but it can occur in nonpregnant people as well,” says Paglia. Those who tan easily or have medium or dark skin tones also tend to be at greater risk for developing the condition. Melasma isn’t dangerous, but it can present a cosmetic issue for those afflicted. Luckily, it can be treated to improve the discolouration, and there are steps you can take to avoid potential triggers.

Causes of Melasma

While the exact cause is unknown, melasma is linked to the stimulation of melanocytes, cells that produce melanin pigment in the skin. When melanocytes are active, more pigment is produced, leading to darker patches. Hormone fluctuations can be an important trigger, which explains why melasma often pops up during pregnancy. But hormone replacement therapy and birth control pills may also be involved, since they cause changes to estrogen and progesterone levels. Melanocytes can also be triggered by light, heat or ultraviolet radiation, so it’s not uncommon to see melasma worsen during summer and improve in winter. Factors such as genetics, thyroid disease, medications that cause sun sensitivity and stress can also play key roles in the development of melasma.

Melasma vs. Sunspots

“Melasma and sunspots are both types of hyperpigmentation, but they have different causes and appearances,” says Paglia. Melasma is triggered by a variety of factors, including sun exposure and hormone fluctuations, and appears most often on the face. Sunspots, on the other hand, are caused only by sun damage and are equally as likely to appear on any part of the body that receives a lot of UV exposure.

Treatment

Because melasma can resemble other skin conditions, the first step in treating it is to visit a derma­tologist to rule out other causes of hyperpigmentation and confirm a melasma diagnosis. Your doctor can then develop a treatment plan that works best for your unique skin.

“Treatments for melasma include peels, microdermabrasion, laser treatments, dermaplaning and micro­ needling,” says Paglia. “To see maxi­mum results, a combination of pro­fessional treatments coupled with an at-­home skin­care routine is advised.” Look for products that contain ingredients that brighten or resurface the skin, such as aze­ laic acid, vitamin C, kojic acid and niacinamide, or prescription medi­ cations such as topical hydroqui­ none, Paglia says.

In some cases, melasma can go away on its own, slowly fading over a few months. This is especially the case when hyperpigmentation is the result of a particular trigger, like pregnancy or medication. It’s important to remember, though, that there is no magic bullet to ban­ish melasma forever; the right treat­ment regimen, however, can help reduce the appearance of patches for a more even tone.

Prevention

The most effective way to prevent melasma from developing at all is to avoid the potential triggers; for example, taking care to minimize sun exposure. “You should always use a minimum SPF 30 on your face and body to protect your skin from the damaging rays—and don’t forget to reapply throughout the day,” says Paglia. “Sunscreen is a must, rain or shine.”

Hormonal triggers can be more difficult or nearly impossible to avoid, depending on your health concerns and future plans. If hormonal contracep­tion, hormone replacement therapy or pregnancy have you worried about your risk of developing melasma, talk with your doctor, who can provide sug­gestions (like personalized skin­care recommendations and lifestyle changes) to reduce your risk or minimize the appearance of melasma.

Our Product Picks For Melasma

Alphascience Mela Bright C+, WeDoSkin, $200

VICHY Liftactiv B3 Tone Correcting Night Cream, Well.ca, $66

AVÈNE Vitamin Activ Cg Radiance Concentrated Serum, Well.ca, $75

DRUNK ELEPHANT Umbra Tinte Mineral Cream SPF 30, Sephora, $49

LA ROCHE-POSAY Mela B3 Serum, Shoppers Drug Mart, $59 (was $69)

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