This month, we’re diving deep into the world of nonsurgical facial treatments that are gaining in popularity. Let’s find out if these minimally and noninvasive procedures meant to brighten the complexion, reduce fine lines and age spots and even out skin tone live up to their hype. 

Dermo-aesthetics—that is, nonsurgical cosmetic treatments—have advanced considerably in recent years. Each tech-nology on the market offers up advantages, but sometimes limitations, too.

How can you find the treatment that works for you? “A good doctor will offer support on a case by case basis, with a personalized treatment plan for each patient,” says Dr. Nathalie Laflamme, whose medico-aesthetic clinic is located in Montreal. Most clinics offer a complimentary consultation in order to discuss your goals and determine a treatment plan that will best suit your needs.

Take a look at some of the most popular nonsurgical treatments right now, how they work, their benefits and their costs.

Facial infusion

What it is: A high-end facial that combines cleansing, exfoliation (or microdermabrasion), blackhead extraction and infusion of a personalized serum using a device with different tips. Some of the most popular infusion technologies are HydraFacial and Bela MD, the latter being a brand-new treatment that adds electromechan-ical stimulation and hydro-gen-ated water penetration to the skin. These treatments generally last about an hour.

Purpose: This skin beautifying facial is suitable for all skin types. In addition to adding radiance to the complexion, depending on the serums chosen, you can reduce mild to moderate acne, minimize the appearance of large pores and deeply hydrate the skin.

Pain level: Next to none. If you have very reactive skin, the microdermabrasion, which can be slightly uncomfortable, can be omitted.

Recommended number of sessions: As needed; for example, at changes of season. Certain skin conditions, such as acne or dehydration, can be treated with three to six sessions a few weeks apart.

Cost per session: From $150 to $250, depending on which technology is used.

Nonablative fractional laser resurfacing

Photo courtesy: © DERMAPURE

 

What it is: To put it simply, a nonablative fractional laser resurfaces without causing physical injury to the skin. The treatment targets the deeper layers of skin and stimulates collagen and elastin production. One technology is called Permea, and it uses relatively short waves that work more superficially on the surface texture, targeting sun damage, pore size and radiance. Permea’s big sister, Clear + Brilliant, works on deeper layers of the skin. These treatments often last about 30 minutes.

Purpose: Depending on the type of laser resurfacing you choose, you can refine the texture of the skin, reduce the appearance of pigmentation and acne scars, and smooth fine lines and wrinkles. 

Pain level: Minimal. Expect a slight sensation of heat and scratching. You may also experience redness and a “sand paper” texture post-treatment, which can persist for up to a week before the epidermis naturally exfoliates to make room for new skin. With laser treatment, one must avoid exposure to the sun at all costs.

Recommended number of sessions: One to four sessions, preferably performed during winter.

Cost per session: From $350.

Skin tightening with microneedling

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What it is: Microneedling is a minimally invasive procedure that creates microperforations using very thin sterile needles. Depth is determined very precisely depending on the area and concern being treated—shallower around the eye area and down to 4 mm on the cheeks with some treatments. To effectively stimulate collagen production, these microperforation treatments are ideally combined with a radiofrequency, as is the case with the treatments like Endymed, Morpheus8, Fractora or Infini, among others. After cleaning and disinfecting the skin, an anesthetic gel is applied approximately 45 minutes before the treatment. The procedure itself takes 30 to 90 minutes.

Purpose: The stimulation of collagen triggered by the microperforations and radiofrequency contributes to skin firming, in addition to having a restorative effect. This technology can therefore be used to treat certain types of surface scars.

Pain level: Mild, with a warm, scratching feeling on the skin. Slight redness, or even some swelling or skin peeling, can be expected in the days following the treatment—but this is normal and healing is quick.

Recommended number of sessions: From three to six treatments, depending on the condition of the skin, with an interval of four to
six weeks between sessions.

Cost per session: From $200 to $700. 

Skin tightening with radiofrequency

Photo courtesy: © DERMAPURE

 

What it is: This technology, which is suitable for all areas of the face and body, uses radiofrequency-based thermal energy to heat the tissues under the skin. The collagen fibres in the dermis contract under the effect of these direct currents, and the production of new col-lagen and elastin is promoted. In addition to Venus Freeze / Legacy (multipolar radiofrequency combined with pulsed electromagnetic fields) and Exilis Ultra (monopolar radiofrequency and ultrasound), Thermage (monopolar radiofrequency) is generating a lot of interest at the moment, since it only takes one session to obtain the desired results. An ultrasound gel is applied first, which allows the probe to slide better while protecting the skin. The treatment with Thermage lasts up to 2.5 hours, while the sessions are shorter—from 15 to 90 minutes—with Venus and Exilis.

Purpose: Regardless of the technology, this anti-aging treatment is renowned for toning the skin, both as a preventive and corrective procedure. It can also be used for body contouring, as its action on the tissues improves the appearance of mild cellulite.

Pain level: Mild. The treatment delivers heat comparable to a hot stone massage, which may feel more intense depending on the region being treated. 

Recommended number of sessions: Treatments with Exilis or Venus require from four to 10 sessions. Only one treatment is necessary with Thermage, followed by annual maintenance treatments.

Cost per session: from $250 (Venus Freeze and Exilis) to $1,200+ (Thermage and Venus Legacy).

Ultherapy

Photo courtesy: © DERMAPURE

 

What it is: Often referred to as “a nonsurgical facelift,” this technique uses focused ultrasound that penetrates to different subcutaneous depths. The procedure, which lasts 30 to 90 minutes, generates a thermal effect under the skin that promotes the production of new collagen. The tightening effect appears gradually over a few months, and can remain for anywhere from one to 5 years, depending on the person.

Purpose: Ultherapy is most effective in redefining the contours of the face and correcting sagging in the lower face, neck and décolleté area, as well as along the brow bone.

Pain level: Mild to moderate. Soreness or swelling is also normal after the treatment. Recommended number of sessions: Only one session to start, but touch-ups may be necessary after a year or two.

Cost per session: $500 to $5,000, depending on the area being treated.

Our post-treatment product picks

For anti-inflammatory action and antioxidant protection: FUNCTIONALAB Pre/Post Inject Injection Recovery Cream, $65, boutique.functionalab.com.

To calm and soothe the skin: PRO-DERM PostTx-1 Cream, $56, pro-derm.com.

 

To soothe weakened skin and reduce redness: SKINCEUTICALS Epidermal Repair Treatment for Compromised Skin, $82, skinceuticals.ca.