We spoke to Sephora Pro Lead Artist Elmy Trieu on the best way to apply false lashes.

False eyelashes often get a bad rap. They’re too dramatic, or too noticeable or just too much. And though we agree that they’re probably not the look you’re after for your everyday routine, they are the best way to make an impact when you’ve got a special event. That holiday party? An upcoming wedding? A family photo session? All perfect opportunities to add a pair of false lashes to your look for an extra bit of polish.

Yes, false lashes can be polished. But, you need to know how to apply them correctly in order to reap the full, eye-opening and brightening benefits of these little black strips.

Sephora Pro Lead Artist Elmy Trieu set us straight with her tips for the perfect lash application. Here’s how to do it.

Step #1: Figure out your eye shape and the look you’re after

There are many different types of false lashes in many different shapes and finishes. Some are more round, some have shorter lashes on one end and some are full and long. Almost all lashes will work on all eye shapes, but different options will create different effects. For example, if you have round eyes and you want to elongate them, opting for lashes that are shorter at the inner corner and longer at the ends will help.

Also, every eye shape can wear falsies. “Sometimes if you have no crease, false eyelashes can actually give you a crease and create definition,” says Trieu. “Alternatively, if you have hooded or deep-set eyes, false eyelashes can open them up, brightening them.”

A tip for picking your lashes: the shorter the lashes, and the more spread out, the more natural the effect. The longer and blacker, the more dramatic.

Step #2: Measure your lashes

Most false lashes will be too long for your own lash line. Measure your lashes by placing the falsies along your lash line and then marking where you need to trim them. “Have the inner corner of the false lashes align with where your own natural lashes start,” says Trieu. “That’s usually about two or three millimeters away from the inner corner of your eye. Then you can know how much to snip off the other end too.

Step #3: Apply the glue

“I recommend picking a glue with a brush applicator so you can really control how much glue you put on the lash strip,” says Trieu. Making sure to apply the right amount of glue is key—too much and your lashes will be a sticky mess, too little and they’ll fall off. “I usually say that the amount of glue applied should match the thickness and width of the lash band itself,” says Trieu.

Step #4: Wait for the glue to get tacky

This step is important! Waiting for the glue to get tacky before applying will make sure you get the best adherence. For a new bottle of glue, this could mean waiting up to a minute. A good way to know whether the glue is tacky is to pay attention to the tone of the glue—usually, it will go on opaque or blue-tinted. You’ll know it’s tacky when it becomes slightly transparent.

Step #5: Apply your lashes

You can use tweezers if you’re more comfortable, but using your fingers to apply lashes works just fine. Trieu recommends applying the lashes in sections. “With your eyelash band you have the front, the middle and the end—I always say to apply the middle first to the middle of the lash line to achieve a balanced look.” Then, place the inner corner. If you misjudged the center at this stage, it’s still easy enough to pull the lashes over to meet where your natural lashes begin. Last, place the outer corner. And remember, always place the lashes where you would place your eyeliner—right over the lashes instead of right on them. Then, make sure they are fully dry before moving on with your makeup routine or heading out the door.

How to remove false lashes

Contrary to popular belief, you can actually reuse your false lashes—you just have to take care of them and remove them properly. Use a cotton pad soaked in oil-free cleanser or micellar water and place it on your lashes to help soften the glue. “Once it’s softened, you should be able to pull the eyelash and it will slide off,” says Trieu. “If it’s still sticking, just repeat the cotton pad process.

If you do want to reuse your lashes, gently remove the glue from the lash band, and then use an eyelash cleanser spray and a spooly brush to sanitize the strands.