Beauty
Curly hair 101: Here's what you need to know
Figure out your curly hair Image by: Getty Images
Beauty
Curly hair 101: Here's what you need to know
What is a curl pattern? What type of curly hair do you have? How do you take care of it? Your need-to-know questions are answered.
Achieving great hair isn’t easy for anyone, but women blessed with curls have their own unique hair-care issues to think about. Using the wrong products or techniques for your hair type can end up being the difference between a great hair day and a downright terrible one. That’s why we spoke to several hair industry experts to get the 411 on everything you need to know about caring for your curly hair. From loose waves to the kinkiest of curls, use this guide to help you identify your curl pattern and figure out how to keep your tresses looking their best.
What is a curl pattern?
"A curl pattern is a bunch of hairs all locked together," says Brian Phillips, celebrity stylist and owner of World Salon in Toronto. "That bond of those hairs locked together form a curl." It’s important to identify what your curl pattern is because it’s the starting point for figuring out what type of products will yield the best results. Some products that work wonderfully on a loose curl pattern won’t do much for someone with tighter ringlets.
No matter the curl type, the goal is to have healthy beautiful hair. "It’s the same as caring for your body when you exercise and eat right," says celebrity stylist and natural hair champion Felicia Leatherwood, whose clients include Issa Rae and Lena Waithe. "You should want to treat your hair the same way." What does this mean? Figuring out what makes your curls look and feel good and sticking to it.
What curl pattern do I have?
A good starting place for figuring out your curly hair type is the numbered hair typing system created by hair care guru (and stylist to Oprah for twenty-five years!), Andre Walker. Walker’s system breaks down hair types into four main categories: Type 1 is straight with no natural curl, while types two to four get progressively curlier starting with wavy and going to super coiled. Then, the sections are further divided by letters. Finer, looser curls or waves are classified with an "A" next to its number. As curls become thicker and tighter, they are considered a "B" type and the tightest curl of each category is labelled as a "C" type. For example, Salma Hayek's hair is probably at 3A, while Lupita Nyong'o has a 4C hair type.
The trick to finding your hair type, Leatherwood reveals, is to examine your curls while they're still wet. “People always look at their hair when it’s dry," she says, “but you'll know what your type is best when it's wet."
Type 2
If your hair is more likely to be described as wavy, rather curly, then you probably fall into the type 2 category. "Generally, you would find this loose curl pattern on European hair types," says Colin Ford, artistic and educational director for Kerastase Paris. Type 2 wavy hair also tends to look more like a "C" or "S" shape when you examine an individual strand.
2A - Pretty close to straight but tends to have a loose, gentle bend. Like Gisele Bundchen.
2B - Your hair is straighter at the roots but has more defined waves at the middle and ends. Like Jennifer Lopez.
2C - Waves start right at the roots and there is clearly a defined bend in your hair. Like Lorde.
Trouble Zones
Since type 2 hair is the loosest of the curl patterns, a common problem is gaining volume at the crown, where your hair would rather lay flat. Depending on how coarse your waves are, you may also have minor issues with frizz and dryness.
Treatments
"People believe a shampoo is a shampoo but this is not the case," says Ford. "When you have the right product then it makes a world of a difference." In the case of treating wavy hair, Ford says to look for products that will boost volume and add bounce, even when picking shampoos and conditioners. For styling products, stay away from anything too heavy that will add weight to your hair.
Kerastase Discipline Bain Fluidealiste Shampoo, $45, kerastase.ca.
Type 3
This hair type is undeniably curly, but can range from very loose loops to tighter, springy corkscrews, says Roger Medina, Garnier hair expert. This type of hair is usually defined by volume.
3A - Usually pretty shiny, with large loose curls. Like Debra Messing.
3B - Slightly tighter curls (about the circumference of a sharpie) with lots of body. Like Zedenya.
3C - Tight corkscrews that have lots of volume. Like Tracee Ellis Ross.
Trouble zones
Type three hair is between a loose wave and a kinky curl so this is where dryness and frizz start to become a bigger problem. "The scalp also tends to be dry so hydration is important," says Phillips.
Treatments
The biggest mistake that people with curls make, says Phillips, is over-washing. Washing strands gets rid of dirt and product build-up but over-washing strips the natural oils from your hair that make it shiny and healthy. "More than two or three times a week if you have an oily scalp is way too much. I think the ideal amount of washing for curly hair is once every 3 days," he says. Remember to always be thinking about moisture with these types of curls—conditioning becomes super important.
World Repair deep conditioner, $44, world.ca.
Type 4
The tightest and kinkiest of curls are in category four. These curls range from tight coils to the tiniest kinks, almost invisible to the eye. This hair type also experiences the most shrinkage—if your hair is noticeably longer when you wear it straight, you're likely in this category.
4A - Softer, slightly kinky curls the circumference of a knitting needle define this type. Like Yaya Dacosta.
4B - Almost a "Z" shape, these curls are often defined as kinky. Like Issa Rae.
4C - If your hair is thick and kinky with a barely perceptable curl pattern, this is you. Like Viola Davis.
Trouble zones
If you have this curl type, your hair follicles grow out in a very coily or zig-zag nature straight from your scalp, explains Medina. This makes the hair more fragile and prone to shedding and breakage. Category four curls are also the most prone to dryness which can be very damaging if not cared for correctly.
Treatments
"There's no such thing as too much hydration," says Leatherwood. "You can use a steamer with a conditioner and get hydrated that way or you can sleep with conditioner on with a plastic cap to hydrate, but hydration is the main focus." She also recommends using the L.O.C. method which stands for liquid, oil, and cream. After washing and conditioning your hair, apply a liquid, water-based product to damp hair, making sure to evenly distribute the product. Next, follow up with an oil such as jojoba oil and then finally lock in moisture with a cream moisturizer.
Garnier Fructis Triple Nutrition Butter Rich Leave-In Treatment, $5.50, garnier.ca.
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