Knitting & Crochet
Tunic-length knitted pullover
Knitting & Crochet
Tunic-length knitted pullover
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If you thought wool couldn't be sexy, you haven't knit this tunic-length Malabrigo yoke pullover. When a wool is as soft, luxurious and stunningly dyed as this, it begs to be worn close to the body! Shaping in the front and sides of the sweater emphasize a womanly form, while neckline colourwork details draw attention to the face and throat.
Click to view larger image
Click to view sizing and charts
Skill level: Intermediate
Size
To fit bust: 30 (34, 38, 42, 48, 54)" / 76 (86, 96.5, 106.5, 122, 137) cm
Finished measurements
Bust: 33 (37, 41, 45, 51, 57)" / 84 (94, 104, 114, 129.5, 145) cm
Length: 24-1/2 (25, 26-1/4, 27-3/4, 29-1/2, 30-1/4)" / 62 (63.5, 65.5, 70.5, 75, 77) cm
Materials
• Merino Worsted by Malabrigo (3-1/2 oz / 100 g ball, each approx 216 yds / 197 m, 100% pure Merino wool)
A: Burgundy Dash 144, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) balls or 851 (918, 996, 1078, 1192, 1292) yds / 776 (837, 908.5, 983, 1087, 1178.5) m worsted weight yarn
B: Frank Ochre 35, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) ball or 106 (115, 125, 135, 149, 162) yds / 96.5 (105, 114, 123, 136, 147.5) m worsted weight yarn
C: Peach Tree 53, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) ball or 106 (115, 125, 135, 149, 162) yds / 96.5 (105, 114, 123, 136, 147.5) m worsted weight yarn
• Size 7 (4.5 mm) circular needle 36" (91 cm) long
• Size 8 (5 mm) circular needle 36" (91 cm) long, or size to obtain gauge (Shorter needles may be used for yoke and neck.)
• Stitch markers in yellow and blue
• Darning needle
• 36" (91.4 cm) of ribbon to thread through yoke (optional)
Gauge
4.25 sts and 6 rows = 1" (2.5 cm) over St st using larger needle
Glossary
K2togR: Knit 2 together with a right slant
Traditionally, decreases that slant to the right are called k2tog. I prefer to call them k2togR to indicate that they have a right slant.
K2togL: Knit 2 together with a left slant
In a traditional knitting pattern, a left-slanting 2-stitch decrease will be written as SSK, K2tog-TBL, or S1 K1 PSSO. I prefer to call these decreases K2togL to indicate that they have a left slant.
Twisted Float Left Slant
Working on the wrong side and keeping strands to right side of work, with A, knit 1, drop strand, (bring strand of B under hanging strand of A, with B, knit 1, bring strand of A under strand of B, with A, knit 1); repeat to last stitch, with B knit 1.
Working a round of twisted float left slant will untwist the strands that have spiraled around each other in the twisted float right slant round.
Twisted Float Right Slant
Working on wrong side, keeping strands to right side of work, with A, knit 1, drop strand, (bring a strand of B over a hanging strand of A, with B knit 1, bring a strand of A over strand of B, with A, knit 1); repeat to last stitch, with B, knit 1.
Page 1 of 3
Excerpted from
Romantic Hand Knits by Annie Modesitt. Copyright 2007 by Annie Modesitt. Excerpted with permission from Potter Craft, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced except with permission in writing from the publisher.
Body
With smaller needle and A, cast on 144 (160, 176, 192, 216, 240) sts. Join, placing marker to note start of round.
Work in k2, p2 rib for 2 rounds, inc 2 sts in last round of ribbing – 146 (162, 178, 194, 218, 242) sts.
Change to larger needles.
Establish slip stitch colourwork pattern (Chart A)
Est rib: With A, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * over next 36 (40, 44, 48, 56, 60) sts, end k1, place yellow marker (pym), k35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 59) sts, pym, k1, (p2, k2) over next 36 (40, 44, 48, 56, 60) sts, end k1, place blue marker (pbm), k35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 59) sts to end of round.
Round 1: With A, work in rib to ym, sm, k1, (sl 1, p1); rep to 1 st before next ym, k1, sm, work in rib to next marker, sm, k1, (s1, p1); rep to 1 st before end of round, end k1.
Rounds 2 and 4: With B, work in rib as est and work in St st between two yellow markers and two blue markers over slipped stitch sections.
Round 3: With A, work in rib to ym, sm, (sl 1, p1); rep to next ym, sm, work in rib to next marker, sm, (s1, p1); rep to end of round.
Rep last 4 rounds until piece measures 3-3/4 (3-3/4, 4, 4, 4-1/4, 4-1/2)" / 9.5 (9.5, 10, 10, 11, 11.5) cm from cast-on.
Tip: The yellow markers note the edges of the centre front panel; the dec for hip and inc for bust happen on either side of the yellow markers. The blue markers note the edges of the centre back panel; the dec for hip shaping happens on either side of the blue markers.
Hip shaping
Next round: Cont in pats as est with A only, (work in rib to marker, sm, k2togL, work in pat to 2 sts before next marker, k2togR, sm) twice, dec of 4 sts – 140 (156, 172, 188, 212, 236) sts.
Cont in pat as est and always working sts on either side of marker as knit sts, work 3 rounds even with no shaping. Rep last 4 rounds until 124 (140, 156, 176, 200, 224) sts rem.
Waist shaping
Work even with no shaping until piece measures 11-3/4 (11-3/4, 12-1/2, 13, 13-3/4, 14)" / 30 (30, 32, 33, 35, 35.5) cm from cast-on.
Bust shaping
Next round: Cont in pat as est, work in rib to yellow marker, sm, inc 1, work in pat to next yellow marker, inc 1 st, sm, work rem sts in pats as est, inc of 2 sts – 126 (142, 158, 178, 202, 226) sts.
Next round: Cont in pat as est, always working sts on either side of marker as knit sts.
Rep last 2 rounds until there are 144 (160, 176, 192, 216, 240) sts. At the same time, when piece measures 19-3/4 (19-3/4, 21, 22, 23-1/4, 23-1/2)" / 50 (50, 53.5, 56, 59, 59.5) cm from cast-on, divide Front and Back as follows.
Page 2 of 3
Excerpted from
Romantic Hand Knits by Annie Modesitt. Copyright 2007 by Annie Modesitt. Excerpted with permission from Potter Craft, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced except with permission in writing from the publisher.
Divide for Front and Back
Next round: *Work 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 27) sts in rib as est, BO 12 sts, work 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 27) sts to next marker, work in pat as est to next marker. Rep from * once more.
Set aside rem 60 (68, 76, 84, 96, 108) sts at Front and Back to work later.
Sleeves (make 2)
Sleeves are worked back and forth.
With smaller needle and A, cast on 34 (34, 34, 38, 38, 42) sts.
Row 1 (RS): K1, (p2, k2); rep to last st, end k1.
Change to larger needles and work in rib as est, k4, inc 1, pm, work to last 4 sts, pm, inc 1, work to end of row.
Next row (WS): Work in rib as est.
Next row (RS): Work to marker, inc 1 st, sm, work to next marker in rib as est, sm, inc 1 st, work to end of row.
Cont in this manner, inc 1 st each edge every 4 rows a total of 22 (23, 24, 24, 26, 25) times, incorporating new sts into rib – 78 (80, 82, 86, 90, 92) sts.
Work even until piece measures 16-1/4 (16-1/2, 16-3/4, 17, 17-1/2, 18)" / 41.5 (42, 42.9, 43.6, 44.9, 46.2) cm from cast-on.
BO 6 sts at start of next 2 rows – 66 (68, 70, 74, 78, 80) sts rem.
Joining round
Slip all pieces onto one needle: 60 (68, 76, 84, 96, 108) Front sts, 66 (68, 70, 74, 78, 80) right Sleeve sts, 60 (68, 76, 84, 96, 108) Back sts, 66 (68, 70, 74, 78, 80) left Sleeve sts – 252 (272, 292, 316, 348, 376) sts total for Yoke.
Yoke
Next round: With A, knit, inc 4 (0, 4, 4, 4, 0) sts evenly around work – 256 (272, 296, 320, 352, 376) sts.
Next round: Knit, placing a marker every 32 (34, 37, 40, 44, 47) sts and a contrasting marker to note start of round – 8 markers total.
Next round: Purl all sts, dec 1 st between each set of markers – 248 (264, 288, 312, 344, 368) sts.
Next round: With C, knit.
Next round: Purl.
Rep last 4 rounds – 240 (256, 280, 304, 336, 360) sts.
Begin twisted float band (Chart B)
Next round (WS): Turn work so WS is facing, With A and B, work Twisted Float Right Slant around all sts.
Note: Strands from the balls of yarn will twist.
Next round (WS): Continuing on the WS, work Twisted Float Left Slant.
Note: This will untwist the strands of yarn.
Rep last 2 rounds once, then with A and C rep last 2 rounds twice more (8 rounds total). At end of last round, turn piece so that RS is facing as you work.
Change to smaller needles and with A, knit 1 round, then purl 1 round.
Next round: (K4, p4); rep 30 (32, 35, 38, 42, 45) times to end of round.
Work in k4, p4 rib for 3 more rounds.
Next round: (K4, p1, p2tog, p1); rep to end of round – 210 (224, 245, 266, 294, 315) sts.
Work k4, p3 rib for 3 rounds.
Next round: (K4, p2tog, p1); rep to end of round – 150 (160, 175, 190, 210, 225) sts.
Work k3, p2 rib for 3 rounds.
Change to C and smaller needles, cont in rib as est until Yoke measures 4-3/4 (5-1/4, 5-1/4, 5-3/4, 6-1/4, 6-3/4)" / 12 (13.5, 13.5, 14.5, 16, 17) cm from joining round. BO all sts loosely.
Finishing
Sew underarm seams, steam-block.
Thread ribbon or several strands of yarn through YOs at Yoke if desired.
Page 3 of 3
Excerpted from
Romantic Hand Knits by Annie Modesitt. Copyright 2007 by Annie Modesitt. Excerpted with permission from Potter Craft, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced except with permission in writing from the publisher.
If you thought wool couldn't be sexy, you haven't knit this tunic-length Malabrigo yoke pullover. When a wool is as soft, luxurious and stunningly dyed as this, it begs to be worn close to the body! Shaping in the front and sides of the sweater emphasize a womanly form, while neckline colourwork details draw attention to the face and throat.
Click to view larger image
Click to view sizing and charts
Skill level: Intermediate
Size
To fit bust: 30 (34, 38, 42, 48, 54)" / 76 (86, 96.5, 106.5, 122, 137) cm
Finished measurements
Bust: 33 (37, 41, 45, 51, 57)" / 84 (94, 104, 114, 129.5, 145) cm
Length: 24-1/2 (25, 26-1/4, 27-3/4, 29-1/2, 30-1/4)" / 62 (63.5, 65.5, 70.5, 75, 77) cm
Materials
• Merino Worsted by Malabrigo (3-1/2 oz / 100 g ball, each approx 216 yds / 197 m, 100% pure Merino wool)
A: Burgundy Dash 144, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) balls or 851 (918, 996, 1078, 1192, 1292) yds / 776 (837, 908.5, 983, 1087, 1178.5) m worsted weight yarn
B: Frank Ochre 35, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) ball or 106 (115, 125, 135, 149, 162) yds / 96.5 (105, 114, 123, 136, 147.5) m worsted weight yarn
C: Peach Tree 53, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) ball or 106 (115, 125, 135, 149, 162) yds / 96.5 (105, 114, 123, 136, 147.5) m worsted weight yarn
• Size 7 (4.5 mm) circular needle 36" (91 cm) long
• Size 8 (5 mm) circular needle 36" (91 cm) long, or size to obtain gauge (Shorter needles may be used for yoke and neck.)
• Stitch markers in yellow and blue
• Darning needle
• 36" (91.4 cm) of ribbon to thread through yoke (optional)
Gauge
4.25 sts and 6 rows = 1" (2.5 cm) over St st using larger needle
Glossary
K2togR: Knit 2 together with a right slant
Traditionally, decreases that slant to the right are called k2tog. I prefer to call them k2togR to indicate that they have a right slant.
K2togL: Knit 2 together with a left slant
In a traditional knitting pattern, a left-slanting 2-stitch decrease will be written as SSK, K2tog-TBL, or S1 K1 PSSO. I prefer to call these decreases K2togL to indicate that they have a left slant.
Twisted Float Left Slant
Working on the wrong side and keeping strands to right side of work, with A, knit 1, drop strand, (bring strand of B under hanging strand of A, with B, knit 1, bring strand of A under strand of B, with A, knit 1); repeat to last stitch, with B knit 1.
Working a round of twisted float left slant will untwist the strands that have spiraled around each other in the twisted float right slant round.
Twisted Float Right Slant
Working on wrong side, keeping strands to right side of work, with A, knit 1, drop strand, (bring a strand of B over a hanging strand of A, with B knit 1, bring a strand of A over strand of B, with A, knit 1); repeat to last stitch, with B, knit 1.
Page 1 of 3
Excerpted from
Romantic Hand Knits by Annie Modesitt. Copyright 2007 by Annie Modesitt. Excerpted with permission from Potter Craft, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced except with permission in writing from the publisher.
Body
With smaller needle and A, cast on 144 (160, 176, 192, 216, 240) sts. Join, placing marker to note start of round.
Work in k2, p2 rib for 2 rounds, inc 2 sts in last round of ribbing – 146 (162, 178, 194, 218, 242) sts.
Change to larger needles.
Establish slip stitch colourwork pattern (Chart A)
Est rib: With A, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * over next 36 (40, 44, 48, 56, 60) sts, end k1, place yellow marker (pym), k35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 59) sts, pym, k1, (p2, k2) over next 36 (40, 44, 48, 56, 60) sts, end k1, place blue marker (pbm), k35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 59) sts to end of round.
Round 1: With A, work in rib to ym, sm, k1, (sl 1, p1); rep to 1 st before next ym, k1, sm, work in rib to next marker, sm, k1, (s1, p1); rep to 1 st before end of round, end k1.
Rounds 2 and 4: With B, work in rib as est and work in St st between two yellow markers and two blue markers over slipped stitch sections.
Round 3: With A, work in rib to ym, sm, (sl 1, p1); rep to next ym, sm, work in rib to next marker, sm, (s1, p1); rep to end of round.
Rep last 4 rounds until piece measures 3-3/4 (3-3/4, 4, 4, 4-1/4, 4-1/2)" / 9.5 (9.5, 10, 10, 11, 11.5) cm from cast-on.
Tip: The yellow markers note the edges of the centre front panel; the dec for hip and inc for bust happen on either side of the yellow markers. The blue markers note the edges of the centre back panel; the dec for hip shaping happens on either side of the blue markers.
Hip shaping
Next round: Cont in pats as est with A only, (work in rib to marker, sm, k2togL, work in pat to 2 sts before next marker, k2togR, sm) twice, dec of 4 sts – 140 (156, 172, 188, 212, 236) sts.
Cont in pat as est and always working sts on either side of marker as knit sts, work 3 rounds even with no shaping. Rep last 4 rounds until 124 (140, 156, 176, 200, 224) sts rem.
Waist shaping
Work even with no shaping until piece measures 11-3/4 (11-3/4, 12-1/2, 13, 13-3/4, 14)" / 30 (30, 32, 33, 35, 35.5) cm from cast-on.
Bust shaping
Next round: Cont in pat as est, work in rib to yellow marker, sm, inc 1, work in pat to next yellow marker, inc 1 st, sm, work rem sts in pats as est, inc of 2 sts – 126 (142, 158, 178, 202, 226) sts.
Next round: Cont in pat as est, always working sts on either side of marker as knit sts.
Rep last 2 rounds until there are 144 (160, 176, 192, 216, 240) sts. At the same time, when piece measures 19-3/4 (19-3/4, 21, 22, 23-1/4, 23-1/2)" / 50 (50, 53.5, 56, 59, 59.5) cm from cast-on, divide Front and Back as follows.
Page 2 of 3
Excerpted from
Romantic Hand Knits by Annie Modesitt. Copyright 2007 by Annie Modesitt. Excerpted with permission from Potter Craft, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced except with permission in writing from the publisher.
Divide for Front and Back
Next round: *Work 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 27) sts in rib as est, BO 12 sts, work 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 27) sts to next marker, work in pat as est to next marker. Rep from * once more.
Set aside rem 60 (68, 76, 84, 96, 108) sts at Front and Back to work later.
Sleeves (make 2)
Sleeves are worked back and forth.
With smaller needle and A, cast on 34 (34, 34, 38, 38, 42) sts.
Row 1 (RS): K1, (p2, k2); rep to last st, end k1.
Change to larger needles and work in rib as est, k4, inc 1, pm, work to last 4 sts, pm, inc 1, work to end of row.
Next row (WS): Work in rib as est.
Next row (RS): Work to marker, inc 1 st, sm, work to next marker in rib as est, sm, inc 1 st, work to end of row.
Cont in this manner, inc 1 st each edge every 4 rows a total of 22 (23, 24, 24, 26, 25) times, incorporating new sts into rib – 78 (80, 82, 86, 90, 92) sts.
Work even until piece measures 16-1/4 (16-1/2, 16-3/4, 17, 17-1/2, 18)" / 41.5 (42, 42.9, 43.6, 44.9, 46.2) cm from cast-on.
BO 6 sts at start of next 2 rows – 66 (68, 70, 74, 78, 80) sts rem.
Joining round
Slip all pieces onto one needle: 60 (68, 76, 84, 96, 108) Front sts, 66 (68, 70, 74, 78, 80) right Sleeve sts, 60 (68, 76, 84, 96, 108) Back sts, 66 (68, 70, 74, 78, 80) left Sleeve sts – 252 (272, 292, 316, 348, 376) sts total for Yoke.
Yoke
Next round: With A, knit, inc 4 (0, 4, 4, 4, 0) sts evenly around work – 256 (272, 296, 320, 352, 376) sts.
Next round: Knit, placing a marker every 32 (34, 37, 40, 44, 47) sts and a contrasting marker to note start of round – 8 markers total.
Next round: Purl all sts, dec 1 st between each set of markers – 248 (264, 288, 312, 344, 368) sts.
Next round: With C, knit.
Next round: Purl.
Rep last 4 rounds – 240 (256, 280, 304, 336, 360) sts.
Begin twisted float band (Chart B)
Next round (WS): Turn work so WS is facing, With A and B, work Twisted Float Right Slant around all sts.
Note: Strands from the balls of yarn will twist.
Next round (WS): Continuing on the WS, work Twisted Float Left Slant.
Note: This will untwist the strands of yarn.
Rep last 2 rounds once, then with A and C rep last 2 rounds twice more (8 rounds total). At end of last round, turn piece so that RS is facing as you work.
Change to smaller needles and with A, knit 1 round, then purl 1 round.
Next round: (K4, p4); rep 30 (32, 35, 38, 42, 45) times to end of round.
Work in k4, p4 rib for 3 more rounds.
Next round: (K4, p1, p2tog, p1); rep to end of round – 210 (224, 245, 266, 294, 315) sts.
Work k4, p3 rib for 3 rounds.
Next round: (K4, p2tog, p1); rep to end of round – 150 (160, 175, 190, 210, 225) sts.
Work k3, p2 rib for 3 rounds.
Change to C and smaller needles, cont in rib as est until Yoke measures 4-3/4 (5-1/4, 5-1/4, 5-3/4, 6-1/4, 6-3/4)" / 12 (13.5, 13.5, 14.5, 16, 17) cm from joining round. BO all sts loosely.
Finishing
Sew underarm seams, steam-block.
Thread ribbon or several strands of yarn through YOs at Yoke if desired.
Page 3 of 3
Excerpted from
Romantic Hand Knits by Annie Modesitt. Copyright 2007 by Annie Modesitt. Excerpted with permission from Potter Craft, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced except with permission in writing from the publisher.
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